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Journal of an overland expedition in Australia, from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844–1845

by

Ludwig Leichhardt

eBooks@Adelaide
2010

This web edition published by eBooks@Adelaide .

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Last updated Sat Aug 28 20:26:43 2010.

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The University of Adelaide Library
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Table of Contents

Preface

Introduction

Origin of the Expedition — Party Formed — Leave Sydney for Brisbane — Party Enlarged — Outfit and Stores .
Chapter :

Chapter 1

Leave the Last Station — Fossil Remains — Darling Downs — Enter the Wilderness — Waterloo Plains — The Condamine — Heavy Rains — Charley’s Misconduct — Murphy and Caleb Lost — Kent’s Lagoon — Coal — Murphy and Caleb Found Again .

Chapter 2

Party Reduced by the Return of Mr. Hodgson and Caleb — Meet Friendly Natives — Native Tomb — The Dawson — Vervain Plains — Gilbert’s Range — Lynd’s Range — Robinson’s Creek — Murphy’s Lake — Mountainous Country — Expedition Range — Mount Nicholson — Aldis’s Peak — The Boyd .

Chapter 3

Ruined Castle Creek — Zamia Creek — Bigge’s Mountain — Allowance of Flour Reduced — Natives Spear a Horse — Christmas Ranges — Brown’s Lagoons — Thunder –Storms — Albinia Downs — Comet Creek — Native Camp .

Chapter 4

Swarms of Cockatoos — Allowance of Flour Further Reduced — Native Family — The Mackenzie — Coal — Natives Speaking A Different Idiom — Mount Stewart — Brown and Myself Miss the Way Back to the Camp — Find Our Party Again, on the Fourth Day — Neuman’s Creek — Roper’s Peak — Calvert’s Peak — Gilbert’s Dome — Great Want of Water .

Chapter 5

Difference of Soil As to Moisture — Phillips’s Mountain — Allowance of Flour Reduced Again — Hughs’s Creek — Tombstone Creek — Charley and Brown Become Unruly — The Isaacs — Native Women — Coxen’s Peak and Range — Geological Character — Charley Rebels Again and Leaves — Brown Follows Him — Both Return Penitent — Variations of the Weather — Skull of Native — Friendly Natives Visit the Camp .

Chapter 6

Heads of the Isaacs — The Suttor — Flint –Rock — Indications of Water — Dinner of the Natives Appropriated by US— Easter Sunday — Alarm of an Old Woman — Natives Speaking a Language Entirely Unknown to Charley and Brown — A Barter with Them — Mount M’Connel .

Chapter 7

The Burdekin — Transition From the Depository to the Primitive Rocks — Thacker’s Range — Wild Figs — Geological Remarks — The Clarke — The Perry .

Chapter 8

Brown and Charley Quarrel — Night Watch — Routine of Our Daily Life, and Habits of the Members of the Party — Mount Lang — Streams of Lava — A Horse Breaks His Leg, is Killed and Eaten — Native Tribe — Mr. Roper’s Accident — Whitsunday — Big Ant Hill Creek — Deprived of Water for Fifty Hours — Friendly Natives — Separation Creek — The Lynd — Psychological Effects of a Sojourn in the Wilderness — Native Camp — Salt Exhausted .

Chapter 9

The Starry Heavens — Substitute for Coffee — Sawfish — Two –Storied Gunyas of the Natives — The Mitchell — Murphy’s Pony Poisoned — Green Tree –Ant — New Beverage — Crocodile — Audacity of Kites — Natives Not Friendly — The Camp Attacked at Night by Them — Messrs. Roper and Calvert Wounded, and Mr. Gilbert Killed .

Chapter 10

Indications of the Neighbourhood of the Sea — Natives Much More Numerous — The Sea; the Gulf of Carpentaria — The Staaten — A Native Intrudes Into the Camp — The Van Diemen — The Gilbert — Singular Native Huts — Caron River — Friendly Natives — The Yappar — Mr. Calvert Recovered — Mode of Encampment — Swarms of Flies — Abundance of Salt — Natives Friendly, and More Intelligent .

Chapter 11

Systematic Grass Burnings of the Natives — Native Carving — Audacity of the Natives Overawed — The Albert, or Maet Suyker — Native Mode of Making Sure of a Dead Emu — Bullock Bogged; Obliged to Kill It — Native Device for Taking Emus — Beames’s Brook — The Nicholson — Reconnoitre by Night — Smith’s Creek — The Marlow .

Chapter 12

Heaps of Oyster –Shells — False Alarm of a Native in the Camp — Turner’s Creek — Wentworth’s Creek — Journals Lost; Found Again — The Van Alphen — Importance of Tea — Choice of Bullocks for an Expedition — Choice of a Dog — The Calvert — The Abel Tasman — Glucking Bird Again — Discover a Mode of Using the Fruit of the Pandanus — Seven Emu River — Crocodile — The Robinson — Shoal Of Porpoises — Native Method of Preparing the Fruit of the Pandanus and Cycas for Food — Mr. Roper Convalescent — Wear and Tear of Clothes — Succeed in Dressing the Seeds of Sterculia — The Macarthur — Friendly Parley with Circumcised Natives — Store of Tea Exhausted — Medical Property of the Grevillea Discovered .

Chapter 13

Cape Maria — Obliged to Leave a Portion of Our Collection of Natural History — Limmen Bight River — Habits of Water Birds — Native Fish Trap — The Four Archers — The Wickham — The Dog Dies — Immense Number of Ducks and Geese — The Roper — Three Horses Drowned — Obliged to Leave a Portion of My Botanical Collection — More Intercourse with Frienldy Natives , Circumcised — Hodgson’s Creek — The Wilton — Another Horse Drowned — Anxiety About Our Cattle — An Attack on the Camp Frustrated — Boils — Basalt Again — Injurious Effects of the Seeds of an Acacia .

Chapter 14

Interview with a Native — Distressing Heat — A Horse Staked : It Dies — Myriads of Flying –Foxes — Magnificent Valley — Friendly Natives — Shot Exhausted — Instinct of Bullocks — South Alligator River — Friendly Natives with an English Handkerchief, and Acquainted with Fire –Arms — Their Language — Mirage .

Chapter 15

Joy at Meeting Natives Speaking Some English — They Are Very Friendly — Allamurr — Discernment of Native Sincerity — East Alligator River — Clouds of Dust Mistaken for Smoke — Impatience to Reach the End of the Journey — Natives Still More Intelligent — Nyuall — Buffaloes; Source From Which They Sprung — Native Guides Engaged; But They Desert Us — Mount Morris Bay — Raffles Bay — Leave the Packhorse and Bullock Behind — Bill White — Arrive at Port Essington — Voyage to Sydney .

Appendix.

Letter from the Colonial Secretary to Dr. Leichhardt.
The Leichhardt Testimonial.

Dedication

“Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann

Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde”

— Goethe , Iph. auf Tauris.

To
William Alleyne Nicholson, Esq., M.d . of Bristol;

To
Robert Lynd, Esq. of Sydney

And to
The Generous People of New South Wales

This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author
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